Frequently Asked Questions

To set up an Account
It is not necessary to have an account to buy a spindle follow steps 1 – 3 (below) then click “Place Order”, which is at the bottom of the information page. (you may need to scroll to the right) This will take you to your PayPal page.

Follow these steps to register:
If using a smart phone or small tablet, hold it horizontally. There is a Primary and Secondary Menu buttons on the upper left side, these will access the Store, individual Spindle pages and other info.
1. Place an item in your cart by clicking Add to Cart (A spindle bag works best since they’re always in stock.)
2. The Cart Page opens showing the item(s) in your cart. Click the Proceed to Checkout button.
3. Fill out the information on the next page which is the Check Out Page. Please check to be certain all the information is correct – we’re not responsible if we mail a spindle to the wrong address if it’s the one on your record.
4. Check the box, “Would you like to create an account?” which is below the information fields.
5. Once registered please click on the Shopping Cart tab at the top of the page which will take you back to the cart in order to remove the item if it’s not something you want to buy.
6 Click the tiny box next to the item in your cart to remove.

After this initial registration process you’ll be able to log directly into your account without the need to first add to cart.

How should the spindle be stored to prevent warping?
1) Displayed on a high self safely out of reach of pets or children.
2) Remove the shaft and lay it alongside the still assembled arms – spun yarn left in place – and store it in a rigid container : lunch box, card file box, tea tin, eyeglass cases, etc.

Most of my spindles live in their individual hard containers. The shaft is always removed and places next to the arms when transporting the spindle.

Help, the spindle shaft is stuck!
Each time a spindle is dropped take the time to make certain that the shaft can still be removed. The impact acts as a hammer driving the shaft more firmly into the hole, the more times it is dropped and the shaft isn’t gently twisted loose the tighter it will be lodged.
Holding the wings steady in one hand grasp the bottom of the shaft in the other hand (Holding the shaft at the tip when twisting to release it is a good way of breaking it!). Gently twist the wings while pulling down on the shaft.
If this doesn’t work, put the entire spindle into the freezer for 15 – 20 minutes. The shaft should then be easily removed.

Dye has rubbed off onto the shaft.
Remove the shaft.
Rub it well with a hand-sized piece of a white Scotch Brite pad, 7445 (usually found in the automotive sections or stores)
If you can’t find any then use a green Scotch Brite pad. (Green SB is rougher which is why we recommend the white.)

If using a Scotch Brite pad doesn’t do the trick then use a piece of 320 sand paper.
If using a Scotch Brite pad doesn’t do the trick then use a piece of 320 sand paper.
Lay the shaft on a towel on a table and using 320 sandpaper sand the shaft with your dominant hand while rolling the shaft with your other hand to sand the shaft as evenly as possible.
Sanding the shaft while it’s on a towel will avoid putting too much pressure on any one point or risk the chance of breaking it. Rotating it as you sand will help you to sand the round shaft more evenly.

My spindle feels/looks dry, or the shaft is getting grungy.
Mix thoroughly 1:1 parts of lemon juice with coconut, grapeseed or olive oil (an oil that doesn’t go rancid quickly), and rub onto the spindle and shaft with a soft cloth. Let sit for several minutes then rub off with a dry cloth.
Or, apply a thin coat of Wood Beams from Goodies Unlimited if you have some of on hand it’s great for spindles. This is what we use for the last coat of finish on all our spindles. Don’t worry about this last bit if you don’t have Wood Beams the juice/oil should be sufficient.

For a grungy shaft: Remove the shaft
Rub the shaft well using a soft, clean cloth dipped into the juice/oil mixture. The lemon juice cuts dirt and grime, the olive oil replenishes the oils that wood needs.
When the wood feels clean and glows gentle rub with a dry cloth.

Lemon juice and oil is also great for cleaning weaving looms & spinning wheels.

The shaft spins inside of the hole.
This problem is more common with the non-maple and non-walnut shafts. The harder, tighter grained hardwoods don’t grip the sides of the holes in the wings the way Maple or Walnut do. The worst offenders are the ebony shafts which is the main reason Ed stopped using ebony as for shafts; slick wood inside of slick wood becomes like a ball bearing. This is also one reason Ed doesn’t smoothly sand inside the holes.

Still there are times that the walnut or maple shaft is prone to twirling inside a slick wood such as ebony, cocobolo, or lilac. In this case I simply push the shaft more firmly into the hole until it’s securely gripping which solves the problem. Occasionally I read about putting a bit of the fiber into the hole as they place the shaft and that takes care of the problem.
Another solution is to do what violinists do with an ebony peg that keeps slipping: rub a pencil around the area that sits inside the hole. The graphite in the lead will help grip the walls of the holes.

Stay tuned for more Q&A